WILD HUCKLEBERRY RAKE
USER INSTRUCTIONS FOR ETHICAL HARVEST
Here at Gourmet
Innovations LLC and Tastes of Idaho, wild huckleberries are a BIG part
of our business, our income, and our lifestyle!
We want other people
to enjoy picking the wild huckleberry, and maybe even sell us a
few if you are so inclined, BUT WITHOUT DOING ENVIRONMENTAL
DAMAGE to the wild huckleberry resource.
Researcher
Illustrates Proper Use of Huckleberry
Rake

Dr. Dan Barney, University of
Idaho extenstion horticulturist & leading
huckleberry researcher,
exhibits how to use a huckleberry
rake,
without damaging the wild huckleberry
plants!
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The most
DAMAGING thing you can do to a wild huckleberry plant is
clip or break off branches, or worse yet, the entire
plant! Wild plants live in a very competitive
environment, and the first ones to grow and take up space in a
particular spot, tend to keep that spot, until or unless a
taller species grows up over the top, and shades them out. But
if you remove the desired plant from a spot, something else
will often takes its place... and then we lose the very species
we went out in the woods to enjoy!
Currently, wild
huckleberry stands are declining across
most of their range, due to changes in climate, fire intensity,
and even logging practices. At the same time, more people and
chefs around the world are learning about the unique, tangy
sweet taste of huckleberries. (Also, demand for dietary
supplements, where huckleberries are called "bilberries", is
rising exponentially!)
So have fun while
picking, but PLEASE, do not damage the resource. Fortunately,
there are still lots of huckleberries to go around,
but ONLY if we choose to be responsible environmental
stewards to the wild huckleberry resource.
Huckleberry stands take 5 to 15 years to really start
producing, after logging or after low to moderate intensity
fires. So if you damage plants, they are not likely to be
productive again in the near future. Each plant someone
destroys is a lost piece of huckleberry pie (hot out of the
oven, with vanilla ice cream) or jar of huckleberry jam that no
one may ever enjoy.
A HUCKLEBERRY
RAKE is the best way to get more wild huckleberries in
your bucket, in an environmentally sensitive manner. Once you
get into a good patch, I've heard 10 times as many
berries are possible. But I think four times as many per
hour is a realistic goal -- especially if
you are having fun, and eating a few berries along the
way.
(Additional
Tips When Picking
Huckleberries!)
Unfortunately, there
are both good ways and bad ways to use a huckleberry rake. Just
like any tool, (A) it can be misused, and (B) it takes a few
tries to really get good at it. A hammer, screwdriver, or drill
is a valuable tool - with practice and when used appropriately.
But misusing any of these tools can lead to vandalism, injury,
or even death.
You probably would
have a hard time killing someone with a huckleberry rake,
depending on the model (but please don't test me -- this is NOT
a challenge!). But it IS fairly easy to damage wild huckleberry
bushes, if you don't approach picking with conservation in
mind. Or IF you think using a rake
doesn't require a little time to uncover
its secrets.
So first, a few
things to know:
- There
IS a short learning curve to using a huckleberry
rake effectively. Kind of like learning how
to "set the hook" on a trout, catfish, bass, or walleye...
they are all a bit different.
- Wild
huckleberries grow ONLY on the current years
growth, near the tips of the branches and
branchlets, but NOT all the way down the main stems of the
plant. (So no need to rake anything but the tips of the
branches!)
- A huckleberry
rake is most effective where the huckleberries are "good".
If the berries are sparse, stick to picking one
berry at a time, by hand. In most wild
huckleberry patches, thankfully, the rake will really get
you a lot more huckleberries, faster (before you poop
out!)
- You WILL get
more huckleberry leaves in your bucket with
a rake, than when picking by hand. But since
the huckleberries are usually washed/cleaned anyhow after
picking, the extra work is not significant compared to the
much larger yield in your bucket. (NOTE: taking the extra
leaves does not really damage the plant - shortly after the
berries ripen and fall off, the leaves fall off too,
naturally. You will get an occasional branchlet with your
rake, but with practice, the damage will be incidental.)
Also, if you use the model of Huckleberry Rake we sell, you
can shake a lot of the leaves out the bottom,
without losing or crushing those precious
huckleberries.
- The
huckleberry rake is effective for MOST species of
roundish berries, in that general size range or
larger, including blueberries, service berries
(Saskatoon berries), chokecherries, elderberries,
cranberries, etc. However, the rake will NOT work for
"seedy" berries such as raspberries and
blackberries.
And NOW, the moment you've all been waiting for
-- let's
start with the actual instructions for using the huckleberry
rake! (I apologize about all the background
information, but some is necessary for using the huckleberry
rake effectively, and the rest... well, you can see my passion
for huckleberries, and for protecting the wild huckleberry
resource!)
If you've read this far, you are MY kind of Huckleberry
Hound!
So now, you are in the woods surrounded by a nice patch of
wild huckleberries.
(And just another reminder
that huckleberries ONLY grow on the current year's growth, AND
that the huckleberry rake tines, while made of sturdy metal,
work best with a small, but manageable clump of berries. Don't
try to "bull" your way through the huckleberry plant. Short,
quick, easy strokes, with just the right amount of branchlets
as a target, will net you the greatest yield of huckleberries,
in the shortest time.)
Start small - chase the smallest branchlets first, to get
the hang of the wrist action. Send the tines in
just under the lowest huckleberry in the group, then pull
the tines up and through the loose clump of
berries.
"WHAT JUST HAPPENED?", you ask.
Probably one of two things. Either you went too
slow, and the berries were pinched, maybe even tore
trying to detach from the stems -- while your rake hung up a
bit on the tiny branchlets, possibly breaking a couple off. Or,
you went too fast, and most of the berries flew OVER
THE TOP of your huckleberry rake, peppering the
surrounding vegetation. Just like the rookie shrimp fishermen
in the movie Forrest Gump, who only got old boots and a toilet
seat in their first catch, your first efforts may net you more
leaves than huckleberries inside your huckleberry rake.
Not as easy as it looks, but it will get
better, fast. If you are a fisherman or fisherwoman (?), you
know what I'm talking about when I mention "setting the hook".
You get the line semi-taut, and then at just the right moment,
you feel a tug, give a little snap of the wrist and "fish on!".
You can describe and explain how to do the wrist motion all you
want, but until you experience the sensation a few dozen - or
even a few hundred - times, you just won't know how to set the
hook, and catch that lunker.
Using a huckleberry rake is much the same. But you will get
proficient quickly, because the wild huckleberries are ALWAY
bitin', as they say, once you find a good patch. And they don't
swim away!
So, here are my verbal instructions, and I will kind of
describe the technique, breaking it down as if it were in slow
motion. Once you get comfortable, each wrist movement will
bring in up to a dozen (or more) huckleberries in
the blink of an eye.
So. As you slide the tines under the berries, you want
to bring up the rake against the "pressure" of the attached
huckleberries -- just like taking the slack out of a fish
line. Note that if you try to take in too many
branchlets at the same time, the pressure turns your rake into
a snarl among the twigs, reducing the effectiveness of
your efforts, and increasing the risk of damage to the
plant.
Again, start small, maybe branchlets of 2 to 5 berries. When
you feel the slightest hint of back pressure, you will do a
short, gentle "snap" of your wrist, upward and back toward the
rake. Too slow, and you snag the branches and bruise the
berries, taking in lots of leaves -- because you are pulling
the berries off, instead of popping them off. Too fast, and
more berries fly over the rake, than
into the rake.
Practice, practice, practice. Don't give up! At first you
may feel like it would be faster to pick by hand. And it would
be! But hang in there, things will change, and once they
change, you will rack up cup after cup of berries much faster
than you ever thought possible.
Once you get the hang of the basic stroke, and get a feel
for how many branchlets or huckleberries you can really rake in
with one stroke, without snagging, you develop a sort
of rhythm. Now it's time to add your other hand as a
feeder to the huckleberry picking production line. In fact, you
probably were already doing this by now, instinctively.
A huckleberry bush often displays berries across a span of
ten or twenty inches (or more) around the top and outside of
the plant, while your rake is only six inches wide. You can
really only cleanly rake a swath of four inches wide or so. But
by using your hands in tandem, you can cover a lot more of the
plant in less time.
Your free hand gathers huckleberry branchlets
together, between the thumb and fingers. You pinch the
twigs, either together to make a larger clump of berries,
and/or away from the main plant, so they are easier to rake
cleanly, without snagging a bigger piece of the huckleberry
bush. Then in comes the rake. Swish. Repeat. (You will always
get a little snagging, so don't worry about it, just work to
avoid pulling off branches when you do hang up. Better to back
out, and take a smaller stroke, than damage the plant.)
Again, you will get a rhythm going, this time with both
hands. Some strokes will not need the second hand... a
branchlet with nice berries is hanging out there, all by its
lonesome. In thick huckleberry bushes your second hand will get
a workout.
An experienced huckleberry "raker" is a joy to behold, as he
or she works around the plant, no wasted motion, short wrist
movements, gleaning most of the plant, while standing in one
spot. Maybe a short step to the side of the wild huckleberry
plants to change the angle, and get any remaining berries. Then
he or she works right on through the patch in a semi-systematic
fashion, with short interruptions where a stray berry gets
popped into a mouth, or the picker takes a swat at an
insect.
ENJOY!
Malcolm & Sandy
Gourmet Innovations LLC
PS With the instructions above, the videos to the left,
the general huckleberry picking tips below,
and a little practice, you have what you need! Oh, and coming
soon, is an opportunity to get a free huckleberry product from
Tastes of Idaho, if you supply a
testimonial!
If you want more information, and results of FIELD
TESTS with nine different huckleberry rake models:
CLICK
HERE for More Info on HUCKLEBERRY
RAKES!
© 2008 - Gourmet Innovations
LLC
Elk River, Idaho
"Improving Wild Stands of Huckleberries"
Workshop
July 29, 2005

According to Dr. Barney,
"Huckleberry rakes, when used properly -- just
like any tool -- do not damage wild huckleberry
bushes."
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